Into Bolivia

Friday 25th November 2016 – We were woken up for breakfast in Puna, right on the edge of Lake Titicaca…the highest navigable lake in the world. Sunshine filtered through the cafe’s windows as we enjoyed coffee and picked up some pressies from local stalls. Passing the border into Bolivia was a dream, so straight forward, soon enough we found ourselves in Copacabana…singing the famous song by Barry Manilow as we arrived. With a one hour wait we took some time to walk by the lake and have a quick spot of lunch…fresh trout…yum. Next was a boat ride over the famous lake, our coach going in a different vessel which hardly looked capable enough of getting a sparrow across let alone an enormous coach. We looked on nervously as our coach, containing all our worldly goods, rocked violently on the waters in the ramshackle ferry. Would it make it? It looked extremely precarious indeed! There was a big sigh of relief when it eventually made dry land as llamas and alpacas looked on from the shore seemingly amused by our worries. Onwards we went towards the capital city of La Paz. As we approached this handsome city…white mountains encircled their master…standing to attention like sentinels…the city deep within the protected valley below. Arriving at the central bus station we jumped on a minibus to a smaller bus station where we would hopefully get a ride to Rurrenabaque. Once there we realised that the only transport available was a shared taxi. Although more expensive than a bus we hoped it would be safer as this journey was well known for its danger and terrifying terrain. At 7pm with six passengers on board and the price of £20 each our journey began. It was one of my worst travelling experiences so far and our second night on the road. Half way on this treacherous route the driver appeared to drive on the wrong side of the road…was he…or was he just cutting corners? We must have had worried looks written all over our faces as a friendly passenger noticed our concerns and explained that it was tradition to drive on the wrong side of the road for that part of the journey!!! Crazy but true! Three taxis later plus multiple manhandling and being bundled from one car to the next…I was a disgruntled and tired mess hence in a very stroppy mood. Unfortunately Aaron got the brunt of my grumpiness which only amounted to putting him into a mood too. All in all it succeeded in being a nightmarish 14 hour journey but the good news was…we were still alive!

Saturday 26th November 2016 – At 9am we were in Rurrenabaque. After a bite to eat we checked into Hotel Los Tucanes de Rurre where Aaron had stayed eight years ago when travelling with his brother. We showered then slept for three hours…it was bliss. Overlooking the Beni River we enjoyed fish and chips and then started visiting travel agents in the hope of booking a trip into the Amazon. Much research later we decided on Ecolodge Madidi Jungle that had excellent reviews on trip advisor. We were to spend three days and two nights in the Bolivian Amazon…I couldn’t wait! That night we stocked up on insect repellent and watched a procession through the town while sipping iced lemonade and beer and devouring delicious pasta.

Sunday 27th November 2016 – Madidi National Park hosts the greatest biodiversity in Bolivia and in the world. It’s conservation is paramount to South America and also worldwide, as it constitutes one of the most extraordinary natural reservoirs of wildlife and genetic resources on the planet. Indigenous Territory from time immemorial, the park was designated in 1995 to protect the tropical ecosystem, including mountains, rainforest and lowlands, with over 1088 species of birds, 44% species of mammals in Bolivia, 38% of the estimated Neo-tropical amphibians and 12,000 plants. Our lodge was owned and operated by indigenous families from San Jose de Uchupiamonas, an eco friendly ecotourism venture located in the heart of the Madidi National Park in the Bolivian Amazon Jungle. At 8.20am we punctually arrived at the office. There we met New Zealander Michael, a bright, chirpy chap who talked happily away as we took the three hour boat journey along the Beni and Tuichi rivers. It was a beautiful ride as red and green macaws flew and splayed their fan-like tails above us, the richness of the Amazon glorious for all to see. At one point our guide, Simon, spotted a yellow footed tortoise trapped on the slopes of a recent landslide. We picked the tortoise up and he continued as a passenger to be released to safety just outside our lodge later on. On arrival a kaleidoscope of butterflies greeted us on the bank…so beautiful. Walking into the jungle we were shown to our room. It was wonderful…clean and comfortable…I felt like a princess in the Amazon. Scoping out the shower block, I looked up to see what I thought was a group of hairy caterpillars in the rafters…I pointed them out to Aaron, who took a photo…on closer inspection it turned out to be one big, very hairy, black tarantula! Lunch was delicious, made from traditional rainforest ingredients accompanied by thirst quenching fresh juice. Then…it was time for our first Amazonian walk with Simon. It was even more magical than I ever dreamt…just being in the Amazon was spectacular but then we were treated to four types of monkey…brown faced capuchins, red howlers, spider monkeys and my favourite of all saddleback tamarins…absolutely stunning. Other animals we spied that day were macaws, a wild pig and tapir and multiple birds, butterflies, insects and spiders…not to miss the awesome bullet ants. The tapir was fascinating and so full of character. We later found out that he was semi wild, as his mother was killed by a jaguar consequently the lodge adopted him as a youngster and now he still visits the lodge for food but goes back into the rainforest when he feels like it. He took a particular liking to Aaron, sniffing him with his incredible nose to see if he had any fruit to eat as well as following him around on the paths that meandered through our lodge. Aaron loved it and got quite attached to the loveable tapir. Returning to camp, I had a siesta and rested while Aaron went out again to spy animals. After dinner we went on our night walk with Simon. The highlight was an Esmeralda Tree Boa close to our track…it was a juvenile with yellow and white markings. When we got back it was bed time for me in our beautifully made, mosquito net protected bed. Not for Aaron though…he went out into the night to search for more Amazonian creatures!

Monday 28th November 2016 – After more wholesome food for breakfast we jumped in the boat and went up river. While disembarking Simon spotted jaguar and ocelot tracks in the mud…they must have visited the river for an early morning drink. Walking through the Amazon we stopped to fish for piranha. I caught a dogfish, Michael caught a yellow belied piranha and Aaron caught…nothing! While fishing two beautiful saddleback tamarins danced through the trees behind us…we followed and watched them bewitched by their loveliness. By the water, on the bank, we spotted Watson turkeys, tiger herons, kingfishers, blue necked guans, toucans and chestnut eared aracaris. Back at base we watched the adorable tapir have a dip in the river then we lunched and were off again to see the giant emergent trees of the rainforest…Amadrillio and Saber trees. The indigenous people believe that at 12 noon and 12 midnight, bad spirits come to shelter in these giant trees so the people refuse to pass them at these times. It was 3pm by now so Simon was happy to show us these impressive emergents. Next was a plant that when crushed gives off a purple pigment. The Tacana people use it to paint their bodies and faces for special occasions. Aaron rolled some in his hands and they turned bright, beetroot purple! More monkeys and some glorious channel billed toucans later we arrived back at camp. Again, after dinner, Aaron went into the night. I joined him for a while spying some hairy legged tarantulas and a poison dart frog…then he continued…alone in the Amazon…while I slept to the magical sounds of the jungle.