The road to Namibia

Friday 18th December 2015 -Another early start! Up at 6am, today we will attempt to pass into Namibia. We had been told by our wise landlady that the bus to the border left at 7am and that with God on our side anything was possible. We have met many Christians since arriving in Africa, their faith is evident in daily life and conversation. I held our lucky St Christopher in my hand and hoped for the best. We had researched this journey and it wasn’t going to be an easy one. No reliable public transport went over the border and we would have to hitch hike some of the way!

Backpacks on we walked the 20 minutes to the bus station, the Kalahari heat beating down upon us. We were pleasantly surprised when our bus arrived at 7.30 and left just 10 minutes later…we had learnt that getting reliable information about bus times in Africa was almost like mission impossible! Off we sped down the Trans Kalahari Highway. A mere 3 hours later…the driver making good time…we arrived at Mamuno, the border. As we disembarked I gave our juicy mangoes to the driver, knowing that I wouldn’t be allowed to take them over the border. Immigration was quiet and we breezed through over to Namibia where we filled in more immigration forms and were met by a tired, grumpy official who eyed our apple hungrily. Aaron gave it as a peace offering and we were allowed through without having to open all our bags, a small price to pay for a quick exit.

It was getting hotter by the second and we walked a few hundred yards past the border to the small shop that sold refreshments. Having spoken to the shop keeper and various white Africans who were keen to befriend us we waited in the shade for a ride. Having waited no time at all, a single man in a car called out ‘Windhoek’ (the capital of Namibia and where we needed to get to). Along with two others we climbed into his car and headed off on the 4 hour journey to the capital. Hitch hiking is like an unofficial taxi service here and you pay the driver a set price contribution on arrival. We cruised along, breeze through our hair from the opened windows, African music playing its beat to our ears. Flat, green landscape began to change to rolling hills and the road started to twist and turn up into the mountains of Windhoek.

We arrived at Banting Self Catering Accommodation at around 3.30pm amazed that we had made such good time…that evening we dined like royalty in a beautiful, traditional Namibian restaurant. From the balcony we watched the city life and sipped sparkling wine.

Saturday 19th December 2015 – After breakfast we headed into town passing deep, purple flowering Jacaranda trees, locals make ornamental frogs from the seeds that uncannily resemble the shape of a frog’s body. Arriving at the Mall we treated ourselves to an ice cream and got provisions from the chaotic supermarket ‘Pick and Pay’. Vowing never to shop there again…it really was the busiest supermarket I have ever been to…we headed back to our accommodation and the cool sanctuary of air conditioning. Aaron decided to make a video of his bag while I sat outside on the verandah, downloaded photos and watched birds and insects as they busied themselves with courting and feeding. That night we cooked and watched TV.

Sunday 20th December 2015 – Early morning and we left the coolness of our room, venturing away from the capital Windhoek. Catching the minibus from the Rhino Bus Station, we headed west towards our first beach resort in Africa. Swakopmund, an old German colony hence the Germanic name! There we sat, the back seat of the minibus, Aaron’s beloved bag at our feet demanding all our leg room and my backpack demoted to the trailer outside in the wake of the bus! Now, about Aaron’s ‘Bag’…sorry…’The Bag’. He gets separation anxiety from his bag and when we travel anywhere needs to be physically in contact with it at all times. So, the bag always gets the best seat in the house!

Continuing to journey on we passed undulating hills with prolific termite mounds punctuating the surrounding landscape like modern sculptures or mini obelisks. There is evidence of termite existence everywhere, but we are yet to actually see one. At one point two ostriches popped their heads up just a few metres from the roadside, shook their impressive plumage and then pecked in the sand for more juicy morsels to enjoy. The terrain gradually started to change to reflect a desert environment devoid of trees with only the occasional small bush or shrub.

Arriving at Swakopmund we sleepily disembarked to a surprisingly fresh and cool sea breeze and got a short taxi ride to our next port of call, Skeleton Beach Backpackers, named after the Skeleton Coast that runs for 500 km along the west coast of Namibia from the Kunene River in the north to the Ugab River in the south. It stretches along around one third of the coast, the Atlantic Sea nipping at its heels.  Exploring the chilly town you would think you were in Torbay rather than somewhere in Africa! It really was like any sleepy seaside town and so surprisingly cool for a beach resort in Africa. That evening we dined on local fish and strolled by the light of the moon along the promenade back to our beds.