Panama

Wednesday 9th November 2016 – We were incredibly excited today to see the famous Panama Canal at Miraflores Locks and Visitors Centre. It was to be a great day of witnessing one of the most spectacular feats of engineering ever for its time. Stretching eighty kilometres from Panama City in the south to Colon in the North, connecting the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, the Panama Canal is a work of mesmerising engineering brilliance. One of the largest and most ambitious endeavours ever undertaken by man, the waterway allows massive vessels, which otherwise would have to travel all the way south around Cape Horn, to traverse the isthmus in less than one day. The Panama Canal really is amazing, both physically and in concept. The basis of the country’s modern economy, it’s also the key to much of its history. Were It not for the US government’s determination to build the waterway, Panama might never have come into existence as an independent republic. In the late 19th Century construction was initiated by the French but abandoned in 1893 after nearly 22,000 workers…mostly from the West Indies and mainly Jamaican…lost their lives to tropical diseases such as yellow fever and malaria. The US took up the construction 10 years later with vast improvements to machinery and a better understanding of malaria and yellow fever. In 1914 it was finished…the isthmus having been breached by the 77 kilometre long canal…with ships raised from and lowered to sea level by three sets of locks totalling 5km in length. The Canal Zone was US territory until it was finally handed over to Panamanian jurisdiction on December 31st 1999. Additionally on 26th June 2016… merely five months ago…the Panama Canal expansion project was completed, adding a new lane of traffic for larger ships to pass. These boats known as Neo Panamax are about one and a half times the previous Panamax size and can carry over twice as much cargo through locks that are deeper and wider than the old ones. Panama felt it necessary to expand the canal in this way in order to accommodate this new generation of container ships. The lock gates at Miraflores are the biggest in the whole system and ships are guided through by electronic locomotives known as mules. We were first in the queue and headed straight up to the 4th floor viewing platform. Armed with a panoramic view of the proceedings we watched enthralled and spellbound as boats from the Pacific Ocean passed through three sets of locks and carried on out to freedom and eventually the Atlantic Ocean. There was a buzz all around us as people of all ages and nationalities enjoyed this spectacle. In total we watched six ships pass, including two Neo Panamax ocean liners in the distance on the new canal expansion. Sailors would wave and video us as we waved back and videoed them! It was heart warming all around. Dragging ourselves away from the observation deck we saw the short movie about the canal and checked out the exhibitions. Having really immersed ourselves in the wondrous world if the Panama Canal, we caught a taxi back to base, did more laundry and feasted on takeaway pizza in the comfort of our room.

Thursday 10th November 2016 – I was so happy that the day had finally arrived for our flight into South America…my first ever visit to this continent. It was a smooth ride to the airport, there was no traffic as it was yet another national holiday! Arriving at the terminal we went to check in only to be told that our flight to Bogota had been cancelled!!! Oh no…apparently all the streets in the capital of Colombia had been closed but nobody knew the reason why…consequently no flights were being allowed in or out of Bogota. Our intended destination was a city called Cali around 200 miles south of the capital (we had originally only booked the two stage flight as it had been so much cheaper than flying direct). With absolutely no fuss whatsoever our efficient airline booked us on a direct flight to Cali with one of their sister airlines. We were rushed through customs and boarded straight away. Would you believe we landed in Cali…Colombia…South America…exactly four hours before we should have done, all because of a cancelled flight…first time that has ever happened! Lady Luck was definitely shining down on us that day. Even our bags had arrived, we had been a little worried as there seemed hardly enough time for our bags to be boarded as well as us…but there they were, greeting us on the conveyer belt…happy days. Leaving the airport we jumped on a bus into the centre of town then picked up a taxi to our hostel. Our taxi driver was a jolly fellow and a wonderful introduction to the partying spirit of South America. He talked animatedly to Aaron while playing loud salsa music, winking at me in the mirror and showing his salsa moves as he sang along to the lyrics signalling for us to join in…and so we did. After checking into La Maison Violetta and treating ourselves to a lovely room with views over the city below viewed through arch shaped stained glass windows, we headed for the first restaurant in the vicinity. We were starving so ordered a three course lunch for a mere $3 each. Aaron had spotted an Italian restaurant as we drove to our hotel and thought I might like it. So for dinner we dined there, being spoilt to one of our best meals of our whole trip. Aaron feasted on fillet steak accompanied by Gorgonzola sauce while I tasted one of the best home made raviolis ever to have passed my lips…wonderful food for the soul…Aaron had picked well. Stomachs full and spirits lifted, we had loved our first day in South America.

Friday 11th November 2016 – We were woken up by light filtering through our stained glass window. Stepping up to the balcony we had breakfast then changed to a cheaper room. Aaron wanted his hair cut and beard trimmed. Having been given the job of his personal groomer I obliged…he’s never happier than when he’s had a good old cut above the rest. It was Remembrance Day so in our own ways we had some quiet time to reflect and remember. That evening we found a bar overlooking a park and church, while eating pizza and sipping beer and pinacoladas we watched as the city’s lights sparkled prettily below us.

Saturday 12th November 2016 – Cali had been a revelation to us in terms of cuisine. We agreed that we had tasted the best food here on our whole trip with the only exception of Stellenbosch in South Africa. The cafes and restaurants were all so individually decorated, the interiors of which were often stunning…adorned with plants, water features and quirky art work. I decided to leave Aaron blogging in our room as I wandered down into the main city area to see how it differed from our hilltop sanctuary. Strolling around town street vendors were everywhere including old fashioned looking machines that would cascade out the nectar of sugar cane being fed into its wheels of compression. Many beggars and homeless people wandered the busy streets, peering into rubbish bags intent on finding anything of value, nourishment or recyclable. I gave a little to a few who I crossed paths with…looking into their eyes I saw a cloudiness in them…confusion…loneliness…a way to survive…what must it be like to live a life where your destiny brings you to this? Put yourself in their shoes for just a minute and undoubtedly you would experience rejection, pain and abandonment. Something to think about when each day we live a life where we are fed, watered, have a shelter and are often loved and cared for…just take a moment and give a thought to those that have nothing. I walked towards the river where modern cat sculptures aligned the banks. All around colourful murals added interest and energy to the fabric of the city, my favourite of which was a chameleon mosaic of pattern and vibrancy. Later we had another delicious evening meal washed down with beer and iced, minted fresh lemonade.