Myanmar

Wednesday 8th June 2016 – After a quiet breakfast Aaron researched my ongoing ailment. For 4 days now I had endured terrible stomach cramps and I was exhausted as no nourishment was getting to where it was needed…I was tired and fed up. He announced that I had ‘Traveller’s Stomach’…I could have told him that! Trying to be brave I put the dreaded Asian tummy ache out if my head and mentally geared myself up for a day of sightseeing. We hired an E Bike again for the bargain price of £3 for the day and headed off to our first port of call Thatbyinya Temple. Afterwards we climbed two unknown Pagodas to admire the breathtaking panoramic views across Bagan…everywhere you looked temples and Pagodas elevated themselves from the ordinary earth to display their splendour against the backdrop of rivers and hills…it was divine. Later we headed to Ananda Temple nestled in Old Bagan…it turned out to be one of my favourites so far…its dimensions were balanced and harmonious while its interior was calming and decorative. It was there that we happened upon someone selling gold leaf. The locals believe that putting gold leaf on a Buddha brings good fortune…additionally I was informed that placing the gold leaf on Buddha’s stomach helps to heal it…what did I have to lose…I carefully glued my gold leaf firmly to Buddha’s stomach with hope in my heart that he would help to cure my dreadful Asian tummy…anything was worth a try as far as I was concerned. On exiting the temple we noticed two local ladies selling their wares. Jewellery and ornaments were displayed before us…Aaron chose a tigers eye bracelet and a beautifully carved Jade elephant and purchased them at a very reasonable price. Delighted with our morning we jumped on our bike…singing along with the wind in our hair we headed back to the hotel for a restful siesta. On awakening we headed to Dhammayangyi Temple. It reminded me of a scene from ‘Game of Thrones’. Dogs slept in ancient archways…swifts swooped in and out of the temple openings, visiting their nests and the sound of hundreds of bats echoed round the interior walls…incredibly atmospheric and other worldly. Just before sunset we headed to Pya Tha Da Temple…famous for climbing to see the sunset. As we ascended we passed a congregation of monks on the stone steps. At the top we were greeted by a sublime view. We drank in the last beams of sunlight of the day and watched the ethereal temples and Pagodas become silhouetted against the illuminated backdrop. Slowly the magic of Bagan went to sleep only to awaken the next day to reveal its unimaginable beauty once more.

Thursday 9th June 2016 – Today we wanted to try and travel to Mount Popa on an E Bike. It was around a two hour journey one way and the weather looked against us, a slow drizzle falling from the heavens on our heads. Undaunted we left Bagan behind us and found rural Myanmar. Men gambled in local bars while women cooked and served food and drink. Everywhere you looked oxen and carts were ploughing the fields…it was a wonderful sight. At one point a herd of goats crossed in front of us on the road led by the biggest billy goat I have ever seen! Soon after it started to rain heavily so we took refuge in a local bar, sipped coffee and enjoyed real Myanmar life for half an hour or so. Onwards we went until Aaron pulled off the road and informed me that our battery was running down fast. We probably wouldn’t make it to our destination and we certainly wouldn’t be able to make a return trip to Bagan…all the facts considered we decided to head back to sanctuary. By now a storm had whipped up and our faces were getting slashed with wind and rain…not much fun at all! We almost didn’t make it back for the end of our ride was aided with our feet and body movements as we tried mercilessly to propel ourselves forward with a totally dead battery…it was just like a scene from the Flintstones! Finally we reached our hotel…I was delighted…but Aaron wasn’t finished yet…he was off for round two…so while I rested up he took a fully powered bike and set off again! Two hours later he returned…beaten by a weak battery…we laughed it off and cheered ourselves up with a walk through town, tasty food and plenty of beer!

Friday 10th June 2016 – After a whole week of this nightmare Asian tummy it was no better with no sign of it improving at all. That was enough for me I couldn’t take much more…drastic action was needed! Aaron went down to the local pharmacy and got me antibiotics and for good measure I took a high dose of Amodium too! Hopefully things would start to improve from now on. At midday we left for Mandalay…a 4 hour door to door service…it was fab! Early evening we arrived at Kaung Myint Hotel…it was the height of luxury for us…we were greeted with a welcome drink and once in our room marvelled at the comfort of it all…it even had a TV with two movie channels in English…what a treat! Later on we had coffee and donuts at ‘Gloria’s Bakery’…great name and then spent the evening watching blockbuster films on the World Movie channel…bliss!

Saturday 11th June 2016 – We awoke to pouring rain outside…the cityscape grey and uninviting through our window…on the bright side we had had an amazingly comfortable sleep in our lush hotel. The breakfast was delicious with an array of European and Asian delights to satisfy all tastes. On returning to our room we noticed that all the clothes that Aaron had thrown on the floor the night before were soaking wet…on further inspection we saw that the water was seeping from the floor boards. Having watched a scary movie the night before Aaron was convinced it was ectoplasm…his way of trying to frighten me…he must know by now I’m not easily scared and he’s more likely to terrify himself than me! The hotel were very apologetic and helpful and we were moved to another room without any fuss. Although the rain continued we decided to walk around town to find some good restaurants to eat at. A taxi driver who had pestered us the day before was there again, he continued to follow us until Aaron made it quite clear that his services were not needed now or ever! As we wandered through the streets we saw the beautifully clad pink nuns all with brown umbrellas walking in single file…it was truly an unusual sight. The nuns are one of my favourite features of Myanmar and I love seeing them wherever we go. After lunch we headed to the Mall and then tried to find a way across the railway line as our hotel was on the other side. Soon we came across what I can only describe as ghetto railway life…it was bleak…children begging, litter everywhere…dogs fornicating…life was tough here. We quickly crossed the railway lines and headed back to normality. That night Aaron feasted on local fish stew and I enjoyed vegetable tempura…slowly but surely my appetite was coming back.