Lesotho

Friday 22nd January 2016 – 8 am we left Ramabanta in a local taxi bus and headed for the mountainous region of Thaba Tseka resting on the highlands on the east side of Lesotho…little did we know that this was going to turn into a 6 hour journey! We needed firstly to go back to the capital Maseru…Aaron having a lady almost sitting on his lap the taxi was so full! The taxis are a little like school minibuses that have been battered and bruised through the years of rough terrain and they normally only depart when totally full…I’m always amazed when they manage to fit in even more people when already full to capacity! Once at Maseru with the heavens starting to open we asked a friendly faced local man to help us find the bus to our destination. He spoke perfect English and informed us that he had studied at the University in Roma. Safely on our second taxi of the day, full to the brim we weaved around mountains shrouded in mist, down into valleys and up to high peaks. Squashed and tired we endured the bus whizzing around corners at high speed and altitude…often on the wrong side of the road with steep drops within inches of us and loud African music booming in our ears! Eventually we arrived…relieved to be in one piece we checked into Mohale Oa Masite Lodge, bought steaming fish and fat cakes (like fried dough balls) from a local shop and fell into a deep slumber to the sound of the torrential rain outside.

Saturday 23rd January 2016 – After a filling breakfast we decided to go on a hike into the mountains. Aaron was keen to make sure we had enough provisions and survival equipment with us in case the weather turned…in Lesotho the weather seems to change so quickly…being well prepared is essential. As we ascended our first mountain villagers watched us with amusement and children would sometimes join us on part of our journey or ask for sweets! We passed shepherds with a variety of livestock such as sheep, cows, horses, donkeys and goats. They would lead them to the best grazing areas whatever the terrain. The shepherds would always wear, almost like a dress code…Wellington boots, a colourful blanket worn like a cloak, a hat of some description or a balaclava and finally hold a stick to guide the animals or hurry them along. Up into the mountains we went to experience the Kingdom in the Sky…donkeys would bray in the distance…the ethereal blue tinged mountains distinctive to our eyes. At the top of our third peak we lunched on rolls and cheese…the vision in front of us a play of sunlight and shadow on the mountain tops. During our trek we spied many creatures…numerous brightly coloured caterpillars, beetles, grasshoppers and lizards…wild field mushrooms also had a place on these mountain tops. After eight hours of hiking we returned to our lodge…guided by two teenage village girls who insisted on holding my hand as we walked! Happy and exhilarated by the day we slept and dreamt of mountains.

Sunday 24th January 2016 – Today our aim was to get to the Sani Pass and leave Lesotho and return to South Africa. Thinking it was one straightforward bus journey we were soon brought back to African reality when we were informed by numerous locals that we would need to take three separate buses! We really were not expecting the treacherous, terrifying journey that was to come! Our first bus took us to Linakaneng…it was a gravel road lined with many boulders…the driver, used to this journey took the best path he could but still I was paralysed with fear as we faced steep gradients and mud slides all along the route…one error from the driver and it would all be over! Our second bus would take us to Mokhotlong…we decided to sit in the front seat for this section of the journey as there was more room for our bags. Off we set…chatting to the cheery driver he informed us that we would not get to the Sani Pass that day and would need to resume our journey early the next morning. He was not wrong. We had left our lodge at 9am and we would arrive in Mokhotlong at 5pm! We had only been on our second bus for 5 minutes when we happened upon a taxi bus stuck in thick churned mud…for 45 minutes we slid and skidded on the muddy road…at one point I gave out a shriek to the amusement of all the locals as our bus nearly overturned…it was the scariest ride ever! Eventually everyone piled off the bus and the driver with Aaron pushing managed to get through! Arriving at Mokhotlong we booked into Tsabi’s B and B, had a filling dinner and slept soundly happy to still be alive and kicking!

Monday 25th January 2016 – We awoke to a beautiful sunny day…our first clear day in Lesotho. Today we would surely reach the Sani Pass! We walked to the local bus station and paid our fare. Once on the bus locals try to sell you food and drink for your journey. One lady was selling marinaded chicken heads and feet! Not for the squeamish! We decided upon four fat cakes and munched away happily until the bus was full. Off we set on a stunning journey to the Sani Pass. Emerald green mountains lined the way. Lush mountain sides and valleys were seen dotted with round houses and animals grazing…a peaceful natural scene of which I have never seen before. Just before the border crossing we passed the highest point in Southern Africa…the mountain of Thabana Ntlenyana standing at 3482 metres! Then, sooner than we thought, we said goodbye to the Kingdom in the Sky and started on our way down the meandering, rocky road known as the Sani Pass…going through thick mist and fog patches as we descended, delicate waterfalls trickling past us from the glorious mountain tops. We arrived at Sani Lodge Backpackers around 1pm…a tranquil oasis nestled in the lower mountains of South Africa. On arrival we were greeted by a spitting cobra that had been found on site…the snake specialist had been called in to retrieve it and set it free farther afield! Ravenous, we gorged on trout and honey milkshakes at the lodge restaurant. Later that evening we socialised with other backpackers, swapping adventurous stories of magical Africa!